Torino: food, glorious food
Around the corner from my hotel in Turin, there was a morning market in the square which had lots of to offer the food shopper, beyond all the designer knock-offs, budget tights and dodgy toiletries that seem to make up the bulk of street market wares in Italy. This stall, for example, offered herbs for teas:
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My new Italian word of the month, topinambours (Jerusalem artichokes - new Italian experience of the month was eating them in Asti the week before)
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and another new Italian word: alchechengi (Cape Gooseberry/ ground cherry / Physalis)
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Of course there was cheese (several stalls)...
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and the ever-popular baked beets (barbabietole cotte) and onions (cipolle al forno).
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I also did a lot of window-shopping. Turin's labyrinth of gallerias offer some magnificent window displays, like this one with its sugary treasures, everything from truffles and chocolate-covered walnuts, to marron-glacées, to Fungoni: "mushroom" éclairs hiding a hazelnut cream centre:
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The Porta Palazzo market was much the same as I remembered from our visit in 2007; same tenements still standing, and perhaps still housing refugee squatters
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and the covered market - housing the farmers' market area - still gleaming and seething with custom.
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In adjoining buildings there was lots to browse, including meats processed and fresh, domestic and wild,
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some bread
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and lots of cheese.
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Meanwhile, stepping out the door from covered to uncovered areas, Europe's largest outdoor market offered a reassuring sense of plenty on the stands that were mobbed with shoppers. There's a large ring of non-food stands (clothing, cosmetics, flowers and so on) on the perimiter of the piazza, surrounding the food stalls in the middle. The shopkeepers did their best to out-shout one another, trying at this late time of day - around noon - to unload a bit more produce before they shut down.
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My new Italian word of the month, topinambours (Jerusalem artichokes - new Italian experience of the month was eating them in Asti the week before)
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and another new Italian word: alchechengi (Cape Gooseberry/ ground cherry / Physalis)
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Of course there was cheese (several stalls)...
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and the ever-popular baked beets (barbabietole cotte) and onions (cipolle al forno).
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I also did a lot of window-shopping. Turin's labyrinth of gallerias offer some magnificent window displays, like this one with its sugary treasures, everything from truffles and chocolate-covered walnuts, to marron-glacées, to Fungoni: "mushroom" éclairs hiding a hazelnut cream centre:
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The Porta Palazzo market was much the same as I remembered from our visit in 2007; same tenements still standing, and perhaps still housing refugee squatters
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and the covered market - housing the farmers' market area - still gleaming and seething with custom.
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In adjoining buildings there was lots to browse, including meats processed and fresh, domestic and wild,
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some bread
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and lots of cheese.
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Meanwhile, stepping out the door from covered to uncovered areas, Europe's largest outdoor market offered a reassuring sense of plenty on the stands that were mobbed with shoppers. There's a large ring of non-food stands (clothing, cosmetics, flowers and so on) on the perimiter of the piazza, surrounding the food stalls in the middle. The shopkeepers did their best to out-shout one another, trying at this late time of day - around noon - to unload a bit more produce before they shut down.
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